What "10-FREE" means in a nail polish
Conventional nail polish contains solvents, plasticizers, resins, and film-forming agents. Among these ingredients, some have long been identified as concerning by European health authorities, particularly substances classified as CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction) by the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA).
The term "10-FREE" refers to a formula that excludes at least ten of these controversial substances. There is no single universal list, and each brand can define its own, but a core set consistently appears among the most rigorous players:
| Excluded Substance | Why it is controversial |
|---|---|
| ✕ Toluene | Volatile solvent, classified as toxic for reproduction |
| ✕ Formaldehyde | Preservative and hardener, classified as carcinogenic (Group 1 by IARC) |
| ✕ DBP (dibutyl phthalate) | Plasticizer, suspected endocrine disruptor |
| ✕ Formaldehyde resin | Film-forming agent derived from formaldehyde |
| ✕ Synthetic camphor | Can cause irritation and allergic reactions |
| ✕ Xylene | Neurotoxic solvent with high exposure |
| ✕ Parabens | Preservatives, suspected endocrine disruptors |
| ✕ Ethyl tosylamide | Plasticizer, banned in some countries |
| ✕ Triphenyl phosphate | Plasticizer suspected of disrupting the endocrine system |
| ✕ Gluten | Excluded for skin sensitivities related to celiac disease |
In short: a 10-FREE formula is not a marketing gimmick. It's a formulation choice that imposes real technical constraints on the lab. Replacing a high-performance petrochemical solvent with a bio-sourced alternative while maintaining the product's wear, shine, and texture requires significant R&D work.
Bio-sourced: when the base of the formula changes origin
The term "bio-sourced" refers to ingredients of plant or renewable origin, as opposed to petrochemical derivatives. In a nail polish, this primarily concerns solvents, the liquid part that allows the color to be applied and evaporates upon drying.
A bio-sourced solvent can be derived from corn, potatoes, sugar cane, or other agricultural resources. The issue is not just environmental: petrochemical solvents are also what generate the strong odors and volatile organic compounds (VOCs) characteristic of classic nail polishes.
However, be careful: "bio-sourced" does not mean "100% natural." Nail polish remains a formulated product that requires polymers, pigments, and texturizing agents. Honesty involves stating what percentage of the formula is of natural origin and making it verifiable, for example, via applications like Yuka or INCI Beauty, which analyze each component of the INCI list.
At Clever Beauty, our eye pencils contain 99% ingredients of natural origin. Our nail polishes use bio-sourced solvents. These are verifiable data, not slogans.
Vegan and cruelty-free: two distinct concepts
Vegan means that the product contains no animal-derived ingredients. In makeup, the most common animal ingredients are carmine (a red pigment from cochineal insects), beeswax, lanolin (sheep's wool grease), and animal keratin. A vegan formula replaces them with mineral or plant-based alternatives.
Cruelty-free means that no animal testing has been conducted, neither on the finished product nor on its ingredients, at any stage of the manufacturing chain. The European Union has implemented a total ban on animal testing for cosmetic products, making it one of the most protective regulations in the world. But this ban only applies to the European market: a brand that sells in mainland China, for example, may be subject to mandatory animal testing. Being cruelty-free therefore implies a distribution choice, not just a formulation choice.
PFAS: the new regulatory frontier for cosmetics
If you've never heard of PFAS, that's about to change. PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) are a vast family of more than 4,000 chemical compounds with an extremely stable carbon-fluor bond, making them virtually indestructible in the environment. They are nicknamed "forever chemicals."
In cosmetics, PFAS are used for their water-resistant properties, color fixation, and smoothing effects. They are found in certain foundations, waterproof mascaras, powders, and anti-aging treatments.
France has become a pioneer in this regard with a law enacted in February 2025 (Law n° 2025-188), which has prohibited since January 1, 2026, the manufacture, import, and placing on the market of any cosmetic product containing PFAS. Residual concentration thresholds have been defined by decree (n° 2025-1376 of December 28, 2025), with a 12-month grace period for stock depletion for products manufactured before this date.
At the European level, Regulation (EU) 2025/877 has added 21 CMR substances to the list of prohibited substances in cosmetics. The European Commission also plans new restrictions on endocrine disruptors and microplastics, as well as the introduction of a Digital Product Passport (DPP) imposing a QR code on packaging to access composition and environmental impact information.
The regulatory movement is clear: what was tolerated yesterday will no longer be tolerated tomorrow.
The Omnibus VI project: vigilance required
Not all developments are moving in the right direction. The "Omnibus VI" regulatory project, proposed by the European Commission, aimed to reduce the regulation of certain substances used in cosmetics, including those classified as carcinogenic or toxic for reproduction. A parliamentary compromise limited its scope, but the debate illustrates a permanent tension between administrative simplification and health protection.
As a consumer, staying informed is the best protection. As a brand, refusing to reformulate downwards is a choice.
How to check the composition of your cosmetics
The good news is you don't need to become a chemist. Two free tools allow you to evaluate the composition of your cosmetics in seconds:
Yuka scans the barcode and assigns a score out of 100, cross-referencing the INCI list with available toxicological data. INCI Beauty analyzes each ingredient individually and flags those that are controversial, allergenic, or concerning.
The reflex to adopt: if a brand claims clean, natural, or vegan, scan it. If it doesn't display its scores or make its INCI list easily accessible, that's a red flag.
At Clever Beauty, our Dissolvant Soin (Nail Polish Remover) is rated 100/100 on Yuka. Our entire range is rated "Excellent" on INCI Beauty. We invite you to check. That's the difference between a promise and proof.
What clean beauty means for Clever Beauty
At Clever Beauty, "clean" is not just a word on packaging. It's a specification: 10-FREE formulas without endocrine disruptors, entirely made in France, vegan, compatible with pregnancy and breastfeeding, packaged in refillable packaging. And now, completely free of PFAS, as French law requires, and as our formulation has always provided.
We believe in beauty that doesn't ask you to choose between efficacy and safety. Beauty that you recommend to your daughter, your mother, a pregnant friend, without hesitation.
That's the definition of trust. And trust can be verified.
